Lion Tamer Costume Finished!

There she is! Took me long enough, but I'm done!. This outfit will be worn with boats, black pants, my black leotard, and this. It's hard to see, but the black part of the jacket has roses on it to add a touch of texture. The vest is tea-stained to match the fabric I used for the ruffles. Overall, this costume cost me about $28 to make. Could be more, could be less because I was disorganized with my receipts *-.-*

I had pictures of the progress I made, but the files on my memory card are corrupt. I have no idea how to recover them, but luckily, the final result pictures made it.

The pattern I used was not my own, but Simplicity's 2525:

With some minor alterations, I was able to complete this jacket. The main difference is the volume around the arm holes. I took most of the poof out to give the jacket a more masculine appearance and to accommodate for the epaulettes.

I would be careful using canvas for the interfacing. I used more of a duck cloth to provide the interfacing, and it can be quite tight in the elbows. Otherwise, it is fine in the shell, and necessary for the collar.

The armholes are also to small for a girl with arms as big as mine. I made the armholes slightly bigger. I wish I had added more fabric at the end of the sleeves, but it'll do.

The fabrics I used are:
Broadcloth - red
Broadcloth - interfacing
Jacquard - black
Broadcloth - tea-stained white
??? - ruffles (I used someone's old scrap from a garage sale, feels silky)

Wacky Mad Hatter Hat -- Detailed, Step-by-Step Supplement w/Pictures and Alterations

This is a pattern and tutorial from Better Homes and Gardens. You can find the original here and here along with the basic patterns. You may need to create an account before you have access to their website and patterns. (It's free so don't worry.) I found that I didn't like their instructions; they were too confusing. So here is a supplement--key word: supplement--to their instructions. No copyright infringement intended; I just want to help people out with this craft.

Skill level: Moderate
Time estimation: ~1.0 - 1.5 hours


Updated supply list
I found I didn't need certain items or the ways they bound certain pieces didn't hold as well. Here is a better list detailing what's needed:

1. Old box of lightweight cardboard. Preferably one without a lot of folds. Folds will weaken the board and leave bumps on your hat. A good example would be a large cereal box, but the ideal would be something like a poster board.
2. Fusible interfacing Medium-weight would be best probably. I used a light-weight interfacing, though
3. Non-fusible interfacing ~Optional~ For more advance sewers and crafters who do not want to spend extra money on the more expensive fusible.
4. Fabric about 1/4 yard to 1/2 yard, depending on how large you plan on making your hat. Half a yard will be for quite large hats. Now would be a great time to use up those scrap pieces! I used a piece of stretch, panne velvet fabric. This allowed me to compensate for mistakes while experimenting with patterns and prevented the fabric from fraying on the edges.
5. Pins
6. Needle and thread Thread should match the fabric.
7. Wire or Floral wire Thicker wire should be used if you want to really alter your hat's brim shape. Floral wire will help keep the shape of the brim but will give you only a little bit of molding power.
8. Hot glue gun
9. Clothes iron
10. Sewing machine
11. Marker 
12. Tailor's tape 
13. Scissors 
14. Rotary blade ~Optional~

Updated Instructions with Pictures
I don't want to copyright infringe anything here, so these are my tips and advice on how to make this hat an alternative way. I will also give you instructions on how to alter the patterns so you can change the shape and look of your hat. Please, please, please go and sign up on Better Homes and Gardens to see how they do their project first. This will make it much easier to understand why I'm doing things this way.


1) Making the band pattern--- Make your patterns from the ones the website gives you. They say to blow up the pieces 400%. You can do this on your own, but if you are worried about the curved edges, you can easily print them out as guidelines. How neat your curves are really doesn't matter because you can always go back later and straighten them out in step 9. I drew my band pattern directly onto the cardboard with a marker to save time. You can do this, too, because no one will see the cardboard in the end product.

Altering the band pattern:

Let's say you don't like the patterns they gave you. Well, that's a really easy fix. 

Here is the basic pattern. I've labeled some areas of the pattern to show what that section will become once completed. The height is colored in purple. The crown/top is the largest curve in this picture, and the curve that will belong to the bottom of the band is the other curve. Whatever you may do to the pattern, the height (in purple) must be the same length! This pattern calls for about 7'', feel free to make it taller if you like.

A rectangle will make a perfect cylinder for your hat. This is good for top hats.

 By making almost a semi-circle, you will get a large flair with your hat. This will be very top heavy and very narrow on the bottom. This is good if you're going for a very cartoony look to your hat.

2) Cut out band pattern--- Using your newly created pattern or the pattern supplied on the Better Homes and Gardens website, cut out one band pattern from the lightweight cardboard. 

3) Altering the crown and brim patterns--- Using a flexible ruler such as a tailor's tape, do your best to measure the crown's curved line (the largest curve). How long it is will be the circumference of your crown pattern. Instead of struggling with the tape and getting sloppy lines to make the circle pattern for your crown piece, just take the number you measured and divide it by π. Take this number and add one inch. This will be the diameter of the crown.  

You do not have to have cardboard pieces for these patterns. You can use tissue paper, newspaper (iron newspaper first to avoid ink from spreading to your fabric and to straighten out crinkles. Butlers used a similar technique for their masters back in the day), or regular printing paper....whatever works. I used cardboard and butcher paper.

Do the same thing for the brim's section of the band pattern. Only in addition to the diameter you've calculated, add 2x the width you wish for your brim. For example, your diameter is 8'' and you want your brim to be 4''. You would add an additional 8'' to the 8'' diameter to compensate. 

Now you have all your pattern pieces and are set for the rest of the project!

4) Cut out crown and band fabric piece--- Using scissors or a rotary blade, cut out one piece of fabric with your crown pattern piece. Be careful not to cut yourself! Cutting out circular pieces can be tricky, especially with a rotary blade. At the same time, using your band pattern piece, cut out one piece of fabric. Add about 0.5'' around the band pattern to make room for a hem later.

5) Cut out fusible interfacing--- Using the same crown pattern piece, cut out one piece of fusible interfacing.

6) Iron fusible interfacing to fabric piece--- Iron the interfacing to the WRONG side of the fabric. Beginners, place the side of the interfacing with all the bumps closest to the fabric. 
.
7) Clip the edges of the circle--- Going about 0.5'' deep, snip around the circle. Clipping will eliminate bulk when we press this on our cone in step 10.

It helps to use a ruler and marker to mark the notches so you don't go too deep

8) Prepare hot glue gun--- Plug in the gun to get it warm.

9) Wrap the band into a cylinder--- Curl the cardboard around. Line up the purple, height lines as best as you can. Take the hot glue gun and run a stream of glue along the edge of one side. Press the other side to the glue. How much you overlap doesn't matter, but try to keep it under one inch on each side. 

Now's a good time to take your scissors and correct any areas where the cone isn't level. You can test this by resting both ends on a table--it should be able to stand on its own. 


10) Glue cylinder top to crown--- Lay the crown piece bottom-side up/interfacing up. Take your band. Along the side for the crown, run hot glue around the circumference. Quickly press this into the center of the crown piece.

11) Hem the band piece--- Using the hot glue gun again, hem the band piece's fabric. Leave one of the straight sides un-hemmed.

11) Glue band piece to cardboard--- Find the seam of the cardboard. Using the hot glue gun, run some glue along the length. Press the un-hemmed side to the glue. Make sure to press the wrong side against the cardboard, leaving the right side of the fabric on the outside. Also make sure to not turn the fabric upside down. Match crown with crown curves, brim with brim curves.

The glue will be hot. Use maker to press fabric to cardboard.

12) Make the brim--- Grab your pattern for the brim piece. Cut out two fabric pieces and two interfacing pieces. If you are new to interfacing, opt for the fusible again. If you feel you're a decent sewer, stick with the non-fusible to save it for other projects. If you use fusible, remember to iron interfacing to both pieces of fabric before continuing.

13) Cut an "X" into one brim piece--- Cut an "X" into one piece.

13) Sewing time!--- Press the correct sides together. Pin edges. You'll have to leave a small opening for wire later. I like to mark these with double pins so I know when to stop sewing. Sew 0.25'' away from the edge. Flip the piece inside-out. Check to make sure you sewed all edges. Correct if you can see interfacing.

 

14) Making casing for wire--- Turn the brim right-side out. Sew using a matching thread a casing. Sew about 3/8'' away from the edge. Complete the entire circle.

15) Wire--- Loop the end of the wire as pictured below if possible. This will keep it from catching. Feed it into the casing you just made. Cut off the end once finished. End the wire by twisting it into the beginning of the wire, or loop it again. I am using floral wire because that's all I have at the moment.

16) Slipstich close--- Using a needle and matching thread, slipstick opening closed.

17) Attach brim to rest of hat--- With a longer piece of thread, attach the brim to the rest of the hat using a slipstich. Make sure to pull the fabric on the band taught to avoid wrinkles. I found it was easiest to rest the hat upside-down in my lap as I stitched. Click the pictures below for larger shots.

 18) COMPLETE! 

19) Add decorations and you're finished!

Changes: I made several changes from the original. For starters, I swapped the glues, interfacing, and also altered the pattern slightly. I also changed the order around because when I followed their guidelines, I found some ways they could have been edited to make it simpler. Thanks again! Make sure to check out the original site at Better Homes and Gardens.

Leotard!

UPDATE: Why is this post so popular?! This isn't even a flattering picture of me! UGH

Ignore my messy hair (I had to jump back in time since the camera was on a short timer) but there's the finished product! For this leotard, I used the spandex Lycra from Distinctive Fabrics and the Jalie pattern for the leotard. Overall, it looks really good! I made some alterations and have suggestions for future alterations.

Alterations I made:
I made the butt coverage a bit more and also lowered how high the cut was on the thigh. I wish I made more butt coverage and more hip coverage so I could wear underwear with my leotard. Also, I did not put elastic on the leg openings (I did on the neck opening and I highly recommend you do the same) because the fabric there already fit rather nicely; plus, I don't want the elastic to cut into my skin. The fabric also is rather unforgiving, so you don't want to make too many mistakes or sew it too much because it'll stretch a bit and start curling.

Future alterations:
More hip and butt coverage and to increase the size of the sleeves. The sleeves are a tad too tight for my liking, but not too bad. They actually just might stretch a bit with wear.

Spandex Lycra:
I only recommend you use this fabric if you're a seasoned sewer. If you have to use the seam ripper often when you sew, don't use this. It's hard to pick out the thread and when you do, you will sometimes pluck the fabric. Also, even if you don't pluck the fabric, it'll still leave holes. This fabric is also super stretchy and if you aren't used to sewing stretch fabrics, this will be very hard and you might end up with uneven seams and wavy edges.

This fabric does make a great leotard. I took it on its maiden voyage today in class and it held up well. It's stretchy, easy to put on, but it can also get a little warm. I would not recommend this for the unitard unless you want it to double as a warmer.


Next I will make a leotard out of the cotton Lycra. We'll see how it goes!

My leotard is done!!

My leotard is done!!! I just finished it. I made it out of the spandex Lycra first, even though it's probably the most difficult material. I will post pictures, advice about working with this fabric, and advice about using this pattern later once there's more light for pictures! (I was just too excited and had to post early!)

:D

Lycra find!

 I've been working busily today to complete my leotard prototype. And I must say, it looks rather good! There's no way I can wear this leotard to class since it doesn't have the full stretch both ways, but the pattern definitely works. It's easy once you figure out the directions. Now, I feel I'm ready to tackle to big task of sewing a leotard for class! I need to find a decent fabric. Since the fabric stores with brick and mortar branches have little variety, I decided to look around online again. I needed something that will give me a swatch AND had, preferably, a cotton/Lycra mix. Boy did I get lucky!

I found an amazing deal for a cotton-lycra blend!

Distinctive Fabrics

The cotton has everything the pattern requires: a two way stretch, 60" wide, comes in black, 85% cotton 15% Lycra, and only $7.50/yard. Plus, I can get a swatch!

Signing up for this company's registry will give you five free swatches. Needless to say, I took advantage of this offer. I ordered the cotton Lycra blend, plus another Lycra blend they offered, Lycra spandex. This will probably be too stretchy, but hey, it's worth a shot. Shipping is free, too. So check this site out!

Sweet!! I can't wait for it to come!

Leotard test run and skirt finished!

I've been working for a couple hours now on this leotard and skirt combo, using the new pattern. So far, so good! I ran into some issues around the skirt but I fixed most of them and it looks pretty good! Passable enough for me! The leotard is also pretty easy so far. It may be a little tight because it only has 70% stretch one way, but since I put that as the width of the pattern, it should be good enough to gauge if it'll fit me or not.

Even though I lowered the top of the leg, it still cuts very high. It'll easily be above my hip bone. I don't really feel comfortable with that, but luckily the skirt covers it.

 The skirt's looking good! It looks lopsided, but I can't figure out why it looks like that.... The more I look at it, though, the more I like how asymmetrical it is.

Anyway, that's it for my sewing today! Have a great weekend! Happy Friday everyone!

My ballet skirt's progress

I've started working on my skirt first. A little backwards, I know, but it has the easier directions so I want to give it a whirl first. Plus, I'm way too exhausted to put a lot of effort into my trial run, so I'm going the easy way.

The waist is sloppy since I had to pin the short ends of the belt to the dressform.

Right away, I'm running into some trouble. I can't seem to anchor down the chiffon so when I cut it, it tends to sway. This isn't too much of a problem. I did a good job on the main skirt, which is all I'm worried about, but for the belt it's a slightly different story. Still, it's not too big of a deal. BUT, I made a huge mistake. The problem with the fabric is that it's transparent, so when it looks like I have the wrong side up, it's actually the right side. I've already messed up a seam. I either tear it and another seam out and risk ruining the fabric, or I leave it and try to cover it up in a unique way. I don't know what I should do... I'm going to practice ripping out seams on a discarded scrap of the same fabric before attempting the skirt.

I'm positive I cut them the right length. I even double checked.

Also, an even bigger problem is that somehow the belt straps are too short. I'm pretty sure I followed the pattern correctly, but there's still not enough to wrap around the skirt. Luckily, I have a plan for this. I'm going to cut out another, longer strip and just add it to the ends. Once I tube the skirt, it shouldn't matter much. Besides, when its tied, it'll be hard to notice, I think.

I plan on working on this leotard over the weekend. I already have my trial pattern cut out!

It's really easy. There are only a couple of pieces: the front leotard, the back, crotch guard, bra, and sleeves.

The pattern's here!

The pattern made it here! I'm so excited! I'm going to start working on it right away!

Here's a picture of it:

The pattern is bigger than most. It comes in two large sheets of paper. I'm going to be tracing over them so I don't have to cut it out. So far, it's really easy to make adjustments. They have right on the pattern where the waistline is so you can adjust as needed. Though depending on your size, there's not too much room you need to make adjustments. The differences between the sizes is small.

I'm a little worried about the instructions. I'm not used to them and the way they have everything labeled throws me off. I'll have to keep looking over them and I'll definitely try a trial leotard before trying on the more expensive spandex.

I'm already starting to make a pattern for a leotard! Today I went to the fabric store and asked the associates what they would recommend. They pointed me straight to spandex and, get this, even recommend bathing suit spandex for leotards. This is particularly good for the "crotch guard" as this pattern likes to call it. I bought a sample of it and will compare it to a couple others to tell you how I think. It's shiny (good or bad depending on the individual) and has the 70% stretch both ways that's needed. 

Pictures later once I cut out my trial! Meanwhile, class tomorrow and college tomorrow... I'm going to be a tired girl!

January Update!

January is halfway over, but it also means that my school is going to go full force soon, too. That means I'll be really busy, but I'll keeping recording information on here!

In case you haven't noticed yet, I'm going to be keeping up the January fitness theme. Since many people's resolutions are to get into shape, I thought I could review a couple ballet inspired exercise videos. Again, here is the link to a full list of exercise videos, hosted by Amazon: Ballet Based Exercises! It already seems quite popular! More popular than this blog, as a matter of fact. But I shall persevere!

I'm going to keep up with the ballet fitness theme until the end of January. So far, I have a couple more items planned. In my last review, I stated what I had planned, but I realized that I left a thing or two off it by accident. So here's the full list of items I'm going to be reviewing:

Ballecore (book)
Ballet Boot Camp
Ballet for Beginners
...and whatever else that may come up and tickle my fancy :)

I will also be reviewing my strength bands and see how well they help train my feet. I just received word that they'll be shipping soon. It's about freakin time! I'll also let you know how those are going.

On a different note, my ballet leotard pattern is coming in soon and I will start sewing that as soon as possible. I really need a uniform and if I use this pattern right, I will be saving myself a lot of money in the long run. Also, I'll be able to personalize it for myself. Can't wait! I'll be sure to comment on that, as well.

Since this month is already halfway over, I should already start thinking about next months theme... hmmmm... I wonder... If you have any ideas, feel free to leave a comment!

Tomorrow I have ballet class and I'm already spinning around, giddy with excitement. I was practicing my pirouettes today in the kitchen and I must say, I have remarkably improved in the short time that I've been practicing. I even managed a double! Granted, the form was probably terrible, but it sure made me feel good! I'm debating on how I should make my "Before" video to show you guys my progress (and myself progress). I'm still slow on the exercises and don't know them all by heart, which is the problem. Perhaps that should be included in the learning process, hm?

Stay safe in this dreary weather!

Ballet Sewing Pattern - Fabrics

My pattern has yet to arrive. It's been over a week and I'm starting to get a tad antsy. To prepare for its arrival, I have already started looking for some fabric so that I can get started right away and have a leotard for class as soon as possible.

I'm probably going to buy from JoAnn's, since it's the only fabric store nearby that carries the type of fabric this pattern will need, but it doesn't stop me from browsing the market a little bit.

Looking for:

• Black
• Spandex mix
• At most $10/yard

We are looking for a fabric with at least two-way stretch. Preferably something with spandex. The pattern recommends Lycra, but any spandex mix will do. It seems cotton/spandex mixes are the most popular for leotards, but I've also seen nylon/spandex. I'll only need one yard for the leotard, and I will probably make a practice leotard out of some black polyester/cotton knit I have to make sure I don't waste any of the spandex because as I found out, spandex can be quite expensive.

The pattern also calls for 59'' wide fabric, which we must take into consideration. If we don't listen to this, then we could end up with not enough fabric. Taking the pattern's requirements into consideration, I found these fabrics:


72% Polyester, 24% Rayon, 4% Spandex; $9.99/yard at Hancock Fabrics
95% Rayon, 5% Spandex; $12.99/yard at JoAnn's
86% Polyester, 14% Spandex; $12.99/yard at Hancock Fabrics
95% Cotton, 5% Spandex; $12.95/yard ON SALE! for $6.95/yard at TrimFabric.com
50% Polyester, 45% Cotton, 5% Spandex; $18/yard ON SALE! for $10/yard at TrimFabric.com

These you would have to buy more fabric of since they aren't quite wide enough:
97% Cotton, 3% Spandex; $8.99/yard at Hancock Fabrics

For the skirt with this pattern, I probably will prefer a chiffon. I have some gorgeous purple chiffon left over from a high school toga costume. I've been dying to use it and plan on using for this pattern. If you don't have chiffon, and want to wait for it to be on sale, then don't worry. Chiffon goes on sale often, I find. You'll only need a yard of it so it'll be very cheap for a ballet skirt. The hardest bit will be sewing it since it's transparent and unravels. I'd recommend overlocking/serging the edges or using a narrow zigzag stitch. I'm going to try zigzag first. If it works, I'll let you guys know! You could also do a narrow hem, but since it's a curved edge it looks like, I'm probably not going to even attempt it.

 I also have this really pretty sparkly fabric my aunt gave me. I was planning on making a cover-up out of it, but I like the idea of a ballet skirt better.

Ballet Class - 1/13/11

Today is an extremely busy day. I have ballet, volunteer work (the largest chunk of my day), and visiting friends before they return to college all day today. I'm definitely an introvert and I need time to relax in between, and I especially need rest before the new semester starts up. It's the volunteer work that's getting to me. They keep calling me and emailing me. Plus, I also have to do some work for the school newspaper later this week so I hope they don't start calling me then, too.

Anyway, today in ballet was okay. I'm feeling more confident about the ballet exercises but I'm still entirely confused about this frappé exercise she has us do. Apparently, the directions are front, side, front, side, back, side, back, side, and then it repeats or something? I know there are doubles in there somewhere but I'm just too confused to even attempt them. Then we did a difficult floor combination. I just can't seem to pick up everything in time. Another woman started taking the class after me and she's been doing fabulous, which eliminates the "I'm new" excuse. There's no way I'm going to be able to get en pointe within five years. No way. Sadly, if at all :(

In good news, I ordered some exercise bands to help me with pilates and building strength in my legs for ballet as this video helps demonstrate. I ordered the same ones she uses in the video and with the same strengths (red and blue). Also, I received word from NearSea Naturals that my ballet pattern has been shipped today. I can't wait to receive it! The only thing I have to look for now is some good lycra fabric. Hopefully some that is on sale.

Also, my school newspaper is looking for people with New Year's resolutions. Since mine is to start ballet again, they might feature me since it's slightly different. They want me to take a picture with my shoes or in a ballet pose... I might do with my shoes even though they aren't pointe shoes. I'm just not feeling too confident about myself to do a pose at the moment.

For all other adult beginners out there, keep going strong! Don't give up! I'm not! Ballet is great exercise! :)

New ballet pattern on its way!

I'm super sick today. I have a sore throat and can't move without getting extremely exhausted. In order to amuse myself, I explored the internet. In my wanderings, I came across a website called Jalie that specializes in sewing patterns for sportswear. This is all types of sports wear, from cycling to ballroom dancing. They also have some everyday patterns on there such as lingerie (another pattern I'm interested in since you rarely see patterns for them) and leggings. They have some pretty unusual patterns, which I absolutely love. Go visit Jalie's site here.

Jalie 2105 - Unitard, Leotard, and Skirt

What's really helpful is that these patterns come in adult and children sizes. That means adult dancers like me can get a leotard pattern that doesn't need much modification. SCORE!

Though there were many patterns I liked, they are also expensive. Granted, they are the same price as Simplicity and McCalls, but for those you just wait until they are on sale. These will probably never be on sale since they are a lesser known company. Only a couple indie sewing stores actually carry these products. Also, since this pattern company is located in Canada, you get higher fees and shipping rates. The shipping to my area is as high as eight bucks. Luckily, I found a better website located in the US that distributed this particular pattern for a much cheaper rate. In the end, I will only spend about fifteen dollars. Much better. You can find that great deal at Nearsea Naturals. 

I'm definitely planning on sewing the leotard and skirt. I've been meaning to buy some leotards for my adult class but have never gotten around to it. By sewing these myself, I will not only be able to customize the clothing for my needs, but will save me some cash. So, reviews and pictures to come once I begin the project!


Update: Leotard is finished! See the results here.